Cheap Electricity: How To Protect Your Electronics From Electrical Surge Events ,Read More

by Darrell Edward Smith on June 26, 2010


 How to Protect Your Electronics From Electrical Surge Events

1.0 INTRODUCTION

In this modern world, we have become very dependent upon our electronic gadgets. We use personal computers to work, communicate with friends, family members or business associates.

We often times store valuable files (such as financial documents, memos, reports, *.mp3 files, and now we also store important personal pictures) onto the Hard Drives of our Computers.

We use the following electronic systems to entertain, educate, enlighten and comfort us.

  • DVD Players
  • HDTVs (e.g., LCD and Plasma)
  • Video Recording Equipment (for those of you upload your videos on to YouTube)
  • Gaming Systems (e.g., Nintendo, Wii, X-Box, etc.)
  • Central Air Conditioning System, Heat Pumps
  • Microwave Ovens

These and other electronics gadgets require a significant investment to obtain in the first place; and are very expensive to repair and/or replace.

And yet, amazingly, we do very little to protect our electronics from damage or attempt to make them last (and serve us) longer.

This article is one of a series of three (3) articles that discusses how to protect your electronics against the following destructive mechanisms that shorten its operating life.

Heat
Electrical Surge/Spike Events, and
Electrical Noise

In this particular article, we are going to talk about “Electrical Surge/Spike Events”.

In particular, we are going to discuss the following topics associated with “Electrical Surge/Spike Events”.

What are Electrical Surge/Spike Events and How are they generated?

How do you protect your electronics from Electrical Surge/Spike Events?

What are some guidelines that you should use when selecting a Surge Protector?

2.0 WHAT ARE ELECTRICAL SURGE/SPIKE EVENTS?

Electrical Surge/Spike events are typically defined as a “large current/voltage transients that occurs in an electrical signal or the power-line”.

Surge events typically last for a few microseconds and are then gone. Similarly, spike events will typically last for a few nanoseconds and are then gone.

NOTES:

a. 1 microsecond = 1 millionth of a second, and
b. 1 nanosecond = 1 billionth of a second.

Both electrical surge and spike events can cause considerable damage to any electronic systems that are electrically connected to these power-line or signal-lines that are carrying this transient current and voltage.

For a typical person that lives in a home and own some consumer electronics, electrical surge/spike events can fall into one of two categories.

External Surge/Spike Events, and
Internal Surge/Spike Events

I will briefly define each of these types of Surge/Spike events below.

2.1 EXTERNAL ELECTRICAL SURGE/SPIKE EVENTS

External Surge/Spike events are called “External” because they occur “External” to (or outside of) your home.

External Surge/Spike events typically originate from one of two sources.

Lightning Strikes (during an Electrical/Thunderstorm), and
Switching events within the Electrical Grid

External Surge/Spike events tend to be very large and damaging (especially if they originate from lightning strikes).

If these external surge/spike events were to enter your home (via the main power line and through the circuit breaker panel), they will destroy pretty much any piece of electronics that is connected to an electrical outlet in your home.

NOTE: These pieces of electronics do not need to be powered on to be destroyed.

They only need to be plugged into an outlet in your home at the time when this catastrophic electrical surge/spike event occurs.

Fortunately, the External Electrical Surge/Spike events do not occur very often (e.g., a few times a year depending upon what part of the world you live in).

2.2 INTERNAL ELECTRICAL SURGE/SPIKE EVENTS

Internal Surge/Spike Events (as the name implies) are generated “internal” (or within your home).

Internal Surges/Spike events typically occur whenever the motor or an appliance (such as an Air Conditioner or the Refrigerator turns ON or OFF).

Internal Surge/Spike events tend to be much smaller than External Surge/Spike events.

However, Internal Surge/Spike events occur much more often than do External Surge/Spike events (several times a day).

Over time, these smaller (though more frequent) internal surge/spike events will do damage to your electronics as well.

Each time a motor of an appliance (such as an Air Conditioner or a Refrigerator) requires surge current (for it to turn on), or anytime the magnetic field (within the motor of an appliance collapses) whenever it is turned OFF, a damaging surge or spike is generated and can propagate throughout some of the power supply lines in your home.

Internal surge events will shorten the operating life of any electronic gadget that is plugged into an electrical outlet in your home.

NOTE: The electronics gadget does not need to be powered ON for it to sustain some damage from these internal surge/spike events.

3.0 HOW TO PROTECT YOUR ELECTRONICS FROM ELECTRICAL SURGE/SPIKE EVENTS

One of the most common ways of protecting many of your electronics from damage (due to electrical surge/spike events) is through the use of “power strips” that contain “surge protection” circuitry within them.

Many power strips have surge protection built in, and in most cases, these types of power strips are clearly marked to reflect this.

CAUTION:

There are some power strips that do not provide surge protection for your electronics.

Often times, people will still (incorrectly) refer to these products as “surge protectors”.

If you are looking to purchase a Power strip that contains “Surge Protection” circuitry, make sure that the labeling (on the box that you have in your hands) clearly indicates “Surge protection” or something like that.

If you cannot quickly find those words on the box, then I recommend that you put that Power-Strip box back on the shelf and go find a Power-Strip that has “Surge Protection” clearly marked on it.

3.1 HOW DO SURGE PROTECTORS WORK?

Surge Protector circuitry typically works by having devices (like an MOV – Metal Oxide Varistor) that “sits” between the “power-line” path and electrical ground within the power strip.

Many Surge Protectors will have several of these MOV devices in order to make them more robust.

Under normal operation, these MOV devices will do nothing at all and do not affect the operation of your appliances or electronic systems.

For you electrical engineers out there, I will tell you that these MOV devices presents a very high impedance between the “power-line” and “electrical ground”.

If a surge event occurs such that the “power-line voltage” exceeds a certain “threshold” voltage level, then the MOV devices will start to conduct current (and will then present a very low impedance path) between the “power-line” and “electrical ground”.

At this point, all of this excessive energy (from the electrical surge event) will be “routed” through the MOV devices (to electrical ground) and will be diverted away from your valuable electronics.

Once the “power-line voltage” returns to a normal level, the MOV devices will then return to their “high-impedance” state and will cease to conduct current between the power-line and electrical ground.

3.2 SHOULD YOU USE SURGE PROTECTORS FOR EVERY ELECTRONIC SYSTEM/ELECTRICAL APPLIANCE IN THE HOME?

In general, you should use surge protectors on all sensitive electronics that you would like to keep and use for some period of time.

If you have Surge Protectors for each of your sensitive electronics, then they will do a very good job protecting your electronics, for the duration that they (the Surge Protectors) function.

3.3 WHAT ARE SOME THINGS THAT I SHOULD LOOK FOR WHEN SHOPPING AROUND FOR SURGE PROTECTORS IN MY HOME?

In general, you should look for the following parameters/metrics whenever you are shopping around for Surge Protectors.

Clamping/Let-Through Voltage
Joules Rating
Response Time (if available)

I will explain each of these items below.

3.3.1 Clamping Voltage:

The “Clamping Voltage” level is also (often times) referred to as the “Let-Through Voltage” level.

Basically, this is the voltage level that will cause the MOVs (inside the Surge Protect system/Power-Strip) to conduct electrical current between the “power-line” and Electrical Ground.

At this voltage level, the Surge Protector will start to shunt the destructive electrical energy (from an incoming surge event) to Electrical Ground and will divert it away from your valuable electronics.

As I mentioned before, the MOVs will continue to shunt electrical current (from the power line) to Ground for the duration that the “Power-Line Voltage exceeds this “Clamping” or “Let-Through” Voltage level.

In general, the lower the “Clamping” or “Let Through” Voltage level the better the protection for your electronics.

Typical values for “Clamping” or “Let Through” voltage level are 330V, 400V, or 500V.

For 120V AC applications, I recommend that you use a Surge Protector with a Clamping Voltage level of 330V.

3.3.2 The Joules Rating

The “Joules” Rating for a Surge Protector will typically define the cumulative amount of energy that it (the Surge Protector) can absorb (throughout its operating life-time) without failing.

In general, the higher the number, the longer the Surge Protector will last and continue to protect your electronics.

Good Surge Protectors are ones that have a “Joules Rating” of 1000J or better.

NOTE: The “Joule” Rating does not reflect the total amount of electrical energy that the Surge Protector will shunt (to Electrical Ground) before failing.

The “Joule” Rating reflects the amount of energy that the components (mostly the MOVs) within the Surge Protector can absorb without failing.

In most cases, whenever an MOV shunts excessive voltage and current to ground (during a Surge Event), it (the MOV) is only absorbing a fraction of this energy.

Most of this energy is “being dumped” to Electrical Ground.

If your Surge Protector is properly installed, then for every joule absorbed by the components (inside the Surge Protector) another 4 to 30 joules was harmlessly shunted from the Power-line to Electrical Ground.

However, each time your Surge Protector responds to a surge event, the MOV devices do absorb some energy, and the cumulative amount of energy that these devices have absorbed moves closer and closer to the “Joules Rating” number and “failure”.

3.3.3 Response Time

Surge Protectors do not respond immediately to Surge Events.

There is a slight delay (or response time) before they respond.

The longer this response time, the longer your electronics sits exposed to the incoming surge event. Fortunately, most surge events do not happen immediately either. Most surge events take several microseconds before they reach their peak voltage.

By that time, most Surge Protection schemes (especially those using MOVs) will “kick in” within nanoseconds after the voltage level has exceeded the “Let Through” Voltage.

3.4 DO SURGE PROTECTORS LAST FOREVER?

Just like the smell of a brand new car, Surge Protectors do not last forever.

As these MOVs respond to Surge Events and “shunt electrical energy to ground” over time, they absorb some of that energy.

This process causes “degradation” and “wear and tear” on the MOV devices (and in-turn) on the Surge Protectors as a whole.

Eventually these MOVs will fail in one of two ways.

a. The MOVs will fail to the point that they will no longer shunt excessive electrical energy to ground. In this case, the MOVs (are said to fail in an “Open” state).

Whenever this occurs, all of your precious electronics that is “downstream” from your Surge Protector are now “officially” un-protected and are now vulnerable to the next surge event that comes around.

b. At least one MOV device will fail into a “Short Circuited” Mode. In this case, the MOVs may (though rarely) fail in the “Short Circuit” state.

Whenever this happens, the “failed” MOV device would continue to conduct high currents (from the Power-line to Electrical Ground) even when the power-line voltage is less than the “Let Through” voltage.

This type of failure mode could be very dangerous.

Fortunately, most Surge Protectors will typically have a fuse that will “blow” and will turn OFF the Surge Protector entirely, rather than risk catching on fire.

The main message here is this. Internal Surge Events occur many times throughout the day.

As these events occur, and as your Surge Protectors continue to function and shunt the excessive electrical energy to ground, these Surge Protectors eventually wear out and will need to be replaced.

SOME GUIDELINES ON WHEN TO REPLACE SURGE PROTECTORS:

You should replace your Surge Protectors under the following conditions.

1. Whenever the Green “Protected” Light (on the Surge Protector itself) goes OUT.

2. If you’ve owned your Surge Protector for more than 3 years.

NOTE: Having the Green Light ON is encouraging but is not a guarantee of adequate protection for the next surge events.

Replacing your Surge Protectors every three years is a good practice to keep your electronics protected.

4.0 OTHER ARTICLES IN THIS SERIES

In this article we have discussed one of the three main enemies of electronics and how they shorten the operating life of electronics and cost you money.

Other articles in this series are listed below.

How to Protect Your Electronics from Heat, and
How to Protect Your Electronics from Electrical Noise

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 How to Protect Your Electronics From Electrical Surge Events

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{ 24 comments… read them below or add one }

king sanet July 23, 2010 at 4:26 am

With all due respect, you are 100 percent wrong. did you notice that was an underground electric service? If you don’t believe me, call your insurance agent. Ask how many claims they settle from damaged electronic items each year. If after that you are still not convinced, visit your local firehouse and ask them about the damage lightning does to both houses and electrical components.

pier July 29, 2010 at 4:12 am

It means surge suppression functionality was lost.

kuman August 19, 2010 at 4:58 am

Protecting Your Computer From Electric…

borrindepo September 20, 2010 at 4:52 am

A third world country that has 50 MZ or 220 volts two pin if so the first thing to do is check the voltage and make sure what you have is proper for 50 HZ and 220 volts as many third world countries have. They use a single phase 220 instead of what they have in the U S as single phase 120 60 HZ and we have a neutral as well as a ground for safety. Many third world countries do not have a grounded system at all.
If you are talking about a two prong that is 120 volts and as used in the US then you may have a 120 volts to prong older receptacle that does not have a ground. If you have this I suggest you either ground the washer bu using a piece of at least # 12 wire to the earth in the form of a water pipe (if metal) or a ground rod to ground the washer so that it does reduce the risk of shock in case of a short between the hot and you if it becomes loose.

Also a footnote to the picture that you showed using a portable GFI or AFI for an appliance this will work as well it may kick out sometimes a lot due to the difference in the neutral load carrying back the the device with a motor load. I have seen it happen but it is safe.

herlan shurci September 25, 2010 at 4:07 am

3-pin socket, grounded to a earth spike, with an RCD (even a plug-in will 'do') in circuit. RCDs do not work unless they have a earth…

Wot country are we looking at here?

vernhilram dles October 9, 2010 at 11:52 pm

Are you a kid?

ure reyguta October 11, 2010 at 9:08 am

All of you without a job, become farmers, America was made by farmers, go plow a field and earn your keep, corn, sunflowers, beets, and get byproducts from this, as oil, plastics, sugar, gas. Pant to feed your people, plant to sale it and pay your bills, but the work in the fields is hard, you all are lazy asses use to WELFARE!!! Now, only cry hopping there is a hand out, America and Americans needs to be a bit more selfish, you all gave to others and now no one is giving a shit about you!!!!

plaine kamarciub October 17, 2010 at 8:23 am

Hi,

Your proposed solution is ideal in such situations.

Ideally, all the 2-pin sockets should be replaced with 3-pin outlets, and a surface clipped 2.5mm earth wire connected from the earth pins, socket to socket.

If this If this earth wire ends up in a ring, all the better. If not, run a cable from outlet one directly to the furthest point.

At any convenient point in the loop, run your final earth wire outside to your copper earth stake.
This should be at least 1m long, and the wiire bonded to the top with a clip as used to bond to water pipes.
In fact, if you have a water pipe, be it mains or from a well to connect to, it will form an excellent earth point

In the Mid-East, when supplying remote buildings, I would sink the rod in next to a bush or tree that was watered periodically anyway, or a veg patch.

I am no geologist, but obviously some terrain such as sand & rocks is not too good.

All the above would also just about meet UK regs.
I would perhaps fit an ELCB, not a RCD device at the source. Belt & braces.

Best of,
Bob

bomawa October 26, 2010 at 4:53 am

sounds like there is a faulty ground somewhere in the system. have there been any recent lightning strikes (could cause an intermittent short). Also, be sure to verify that you have a good earth ground inside your house.

reu zou November 6, 2010 at 10:27 pm

Source of all problems in this country are two fold. 1) NAFTA & 2) HFCS Two things duct tape won’t fix. CRAP

buzoni edge November 8, 2010 at 6:10 am

sounds like there is a faulty ground somewhere in the system. have there been any recent lightning strikes (could cause an intermittent short). Also, be sure to verify that you have a good earth ground inside your house.

kun shia November 18, 2010 at 3:59 am

It means surge suppression functionality was lost.

weata November 26, 2010 at 4:20 am

sounds like there is a faulty ground somewhere in the system. have there been any recent lightning strikes (could cause an intermittent short). Also, be sure to verify that you have a good earth ground inside your house.

musi autt December 5, 2010 at 2:00 am

Angry buzzing and then…POW!!!

giselba fler December 5, 2010 at 9:23 am

Yeah, Armored Armadillo can definately be tedious. Especially without his weakness.

till December 12, 2010 at 11:00 pm

twat

pye December 16, 2010 at 8:46 pm

ok first, are u sure it's not working? try to wait for like an hour and then retry turning it on. if it still doesnt work, the fuse inside must have burnt. dont worry, the fuse protects the whole thing from getting wrecked, so if you just fix the fuse it will be alright.

oh and did a weird smell come out?

after details (sorry, i just read them)

ok if a smell didn't come out then that's a good sign. however it can still be the fuse. i remember something similar happening to my gamecube (it's almost the same idea,, so don't think i'm talking for the sake of talking lol) and it just needed a fuse change. (only that a smell DID come out from my gamecube) however, once i got a wii, i asked a technician if something similar happens to the wii could it be fixed as easily as the gamecube? he told me yes. seeing as they are almost the same idea. in case it WAS the fuse, then the adapter would have the problem (again, similar to my case)otherwise, ( in case it was within the wii itself), i'm afraid ican't help since ihave no idea.

man faz December 20, 2010 at 10:43 pm

Electric car surge in Austin: Henna Chevrolet along with other local dealerships are completely sold out of … #ev

magnongfie December 21, 2010 at 3:11 pm

Electric car surge in Austin: by Beth Danziger/KVUE News The growth of electric cars is surging across Austin an…

basamin van December 26, 2010 at 11:27 pm

Your house has 2 pin electrics. How do these 2 pins fit into the electric box on the wall. Are they like the states, with one black wire being hot and the white being common, and then if in the states your have a third that one being ground(which you don't). I would look at the directions on the washing machine and and see what the third pin is for. If its like the states #1 back hot #2 white common #3 ground and your wall pins are like #1 and #2 I would just cut off the #3 ground, but before you do that you should really have a good understanding what's in your box.

If you ran the grounding wire to an earth spike you may not be affecting your incoming electrics at all. It would be more efficient to put a wire on the washer itself and find a copper water pipe and attach it to that. Do you understand what I'm saying. That third wire may or may not go to the ground on your washing machine. If you do the wire on the plug you should make sure where it goes.

Understand your box first and then worry about your wires.

Would love some feed back

elstant jcker December 31, 2010 at 9:08 am

I will defend ALL wrestlers

knightweck rosslins January 2, 2011 at 6:43 am

Heat Surge! An ELECTRIC heater hand crafted by the AMISH. #OhWait #Infomercial

meen weedo January 2, 2011 at 10:33 pm

Daily deal: Roby Electric, Inc. – Whole House Surge Protection For Only $189! #charlotte

svaalfiel piusen January 24, 2011 at 12:23 pm

lol no worries sun does not explode for a few million years from now and it will even expand to take the planet when it goes? OPM-Our Planet Matters (nov 16/08 facebook group) 1.Alternative powered farming resources, tackle climate energy poverty and water in one while helping all afford the nessesities they need with “Public Options” from my email in summer 08 2. A Non-Socail “Professional” network for Public and gov/U.N to work local to global this became the social networking08?

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